Stained, dusty or peeling concrete you can't do without for long? We prep the slab properly and lay a tough coating that cures fast.
A polyaspartic floor coating is a fast-curing, polyurea-type coating we put directly over your concrete in Castro Valley, so your garage, basement or shop gets a hard floor that stands up to stains, scuffs and sun, and that you can use again quickly.
Most calls start with a garage floor that's stained, dusty or peeling where an old paint or sealer gave up. Polyaspartic is a good answer when you want something tougher than paint and can't spare the floor for long. It costs more than a basic epoxy, though, and it only holds as well as the concrete under it, which is why I look at the slab before I talk about colors.
The price turns on the size of the floor, the shape it's in, the product we use and any decorative finish you choose. A floor with old coating to strip, wide cracks or damp spots needs more prep, and that adds to both the cost and the schedule. Your written estimate puts the price and the prep for your own slab on paper before we start.
A polyaspartic coat is thin and hard, so it shows whatever the concrete underneath is doing. These are the things I check on every floor, and why each one matters to how long yours holds.
A coating bonds to clean, open concrete, not to whatever was rolled on before it. If your floor has paint, a sealer or an old epoxy, we grind or strip it off first, and I'll tell you at the estimate if that's a bigger job than it looks.
A coating can't stop concrete from moving, so a crack that keeps opening will usually show back through. We clean out and fill cracks before we coat, and I'll point out any that look active so you know what to expect rather than finding out later.
Ground-level slabs give off moisture from below, and too much of it can lift a coating off the concrete. That's why we test before we commit to a system, and if your floor is damp, I'll say so plainly instead of coating it and hoping.
A garage that holds two cars and a workbench needs a different texture and build than a basement playroom. I ask about tires, tools, chemicals and foot traffic so the system we quote fits the way your floor actually gets used.
From the first call to the final walk-through, you'll deal with me and our crew, and you'll know what's planned for your floor before any work starts. Here's how it usually goes.
Call (510) 931-7868 or send our form with a few lines about your floor. We'll get back to you to set up a time that suits you for me to come out and see it.
I look over the concrete for cracks, moisture and old coatings, and I ask how you use the space. Afterward you get a written estimate with the price and the prep your slab needs, so nothing is left to guess.
Once you're ready, we schedule the work around when you need the floor back. Our crew grinds and repairs the slab, keeps the air moving and the dust contained, and then puts down the system we agreed on.
Before we leave, I walk the floor with you and tell you when it's ready for foot traffic, for your car and for its first wash. We clean up and take our debris with us.
People choose polyaspartic because they want their floor back quickly, so we plan the job around when you need it, whether that's the car going back in the garage or a shop opening for the week. We still test and prep the slab first, because a quick cure doesn't help a coating that won't stick.
Prep is mostly grinding. We take the top off the concrete with a diamond grinder, which opens the surface so the coating can grip it, and we fill cracks and patch chips while we're at it. Then we vacuum the floor clean and put the coating down directly over the bare concrete, building it up in coats to the system on your estimate.
Polyaspartic isn't the answer for every floor, and I'd rather tell you that now. If you're after a deep, poured look with swirls and depth, metallic epoxy flooring is usually the better fit. For a commercial kitchen or a shop floor that sees hot water and harsh chemicals day after day, urethane cement flooring tends to hold up better.
Colored chips are broadcast into the wet coat and sealed under a clear top coat. For most garages I suggest flake, because it hides dust and tire marks, adds a little grip underfoot and forgives small flaws in the slab.
One even color under a clear top coat gives a plain, clean look that suits a workshop or laundry room. It shows dirt and every flaw in the concrete more, so it asks for a cleaner slab underneath.
Send the form with the size of your floor and, if you know it, how old the slab is, and we'll reply within one business day to set up a visit. The estimate is free, done on site and comes with no obligation. I'll look over the concrete in person and put the price and the prep in writing for you.
(510) 931-7868Castro Valley is an unincorporated part of Alameda County, so building permits here come from the county's permit service rather than a city hall. Applications, plans, inspection scheduling and permit status all run through the Alameda County Permit Portal. I don't assume either way on a coating job, so if yours needs a permit, I'll say so at the estimate and we'll file it for you or walk you through filing it yourself.
Around Castro Valley we coat a lot of attached garages on older slabs, many of them painted, sealed or patched by an earlier owner, and plenty with oil stains and settling cracks. That's the kind of floor where grinding and crack work earn their keep. We do the same work in Hayward and San Leandro, with the same testing and prep before any coating goes down.
I'm the one who comes out to look at your floor, and I stay on the job with our crew from the first pass of prep to the final walk-through. I got into this trade by grinding and coating my own garage, and we've been doing it for others since 2017. Prep is the part nobody sees, and it's the part we spend the most care on.
We're licensed and insured. We also treat your house as someone else's property, because it is, and we leave it clean when we go. Satisfaction guaranteed on every job. When you're ready, please call (510) 931-7868 or send us the form, and we'll set up a time for me to come see your floor.
A good pick for a living area, showroom or finished basement where you want a glossy, flowing finish with real depth rather than a flake garage look.
Worth comparing if your floor faces hot water, steam cleaning or harsh spills, the conditions that tend to wear ordinary coatings down fastest.
We're based in Castro Valley and coat floors in Hayward, San Leandro, Oakland, Dublin, Pleasanton and many other cities around it. If you're nearby and don't see your city listed, please call and ask.
Across the US, a professionally installed polyaspartic floor coating usually runs about $5 to $12 per square foot, materials included, and that's a national figure, not our price. Where your floor lands depends on its size, its condition, the product and any decorative finish. Your estimate puts your own price in writing.
Most polyaspartic coatings are dry to the touch within a few hours, and full cure for heavy vehicle traffic typically comes within 24 to 48 hours. Plan to park your cars elsewhere for that window. I'll tell you on the final walk-through when your floor is ready for them.
In a home, a properly applied and maintained polyaspartic coating can last 10 to 20 years or more. Both halves of that matter, because the life of the floor rests on the prep and application up front and on regular cleaning afterward. That's why we spend the time we do on the slab.
A blend of epoxy and polyaspartic layers usually costs less, but it may not perform as well as an all-polyaspartic system. If you're comparing bids, check which one each contractor is quoting, since a lower price can mean a blend. Our written estimate names the system we'd put down on your floor.
Yes, once it has cured and dried enough, and one maker's guide for its product says new concrete should cure at least 28 days first. That same maker always recommends moisture vapor testing before coating bare concrete, because a damp or uncured slab can turn hazy or lose its grip. We test before we coat.
Clear the floor completely, including cars, shelves, bikes and anything stored against the walls, so we can grind and coat right up to the edges. Please tell us about any old sealer, paint or spills you know of, and line up somewhere else to park until the coating has cured, as covered above.
Call (510) 931-7868 or send the form any day of the week, since our hours run until 9 PM on weekdays and weekends alike.
